Sump pump installation might seem like a big task, but with some planning and the right tools, you can do it yourself. This guide leads you through each phase before installation, removing an old pump, and installing a new one step by step. Tristate Waterproofing trusts this method for reliable protection. Here’s how to keep your basement and crawl space dry and your investment safe.
Before Installing Your Pump
Before you begin any digging or drilling, gather the essentials:
Recommended Tools for Sump Pump Installation
- Jackhammer or rotary hammer (plus masonry bits)
- Shovel, tape measure, level or wooden float
- Five-gallon bucket for concrete and debris
- Gravel (coarse, ⅜ – ½ in.)
- Concrete mix (cement, sand, gravel ratio ~1:2:3)
- PVC pipes, fittings, male adapter, check valve, PVC cement
- Vinyl electrical tape or zip ties
- Hole saw or drill bit for rim‑joist hole
- Silicone‑based caulk, trowel, and screed board
- GFCI outlet and basic wiring supplies
Collecting these in advance saves time mid‑project and ensures you’re ready. Top DIY installers stress how proper prep makes all the difference.
How to Remove Your Sump Pump
If replacing an old pump, first remove it carefully:
- Unplug from the GFCI outlet and switch off power.
- Detach the discharge pipe and unscrew the check valve if one is installed.
- Reach in and grip the pump support ring and riser.
- Gently lift the pump out of the liner, being careful not to damage it.
- Clean out any sediment, debris, or slime at the bottom of the liner.
With the pit cleaned and clear, you’re ready to prepare for the new installation.
Sump Pump Installation Process
Step 1: Starting – Concrete Removal
Plan to place the pit at least 8 inches from the foundation walls to avoid striking the footing. Mark the area on the concrete, leaving at least 6 inches of clearance all around the pit. Use your jackhammer to cut the perimeter and break up the interior into 8–12 chunks. Once the surface is shattered, use an angled hammer to pry up pieces, then bucket them out.
Step 2: Digging the Pit
After removing the concrete, dig soil until the liner top is level with your basement floor. Then, surround it with at least 6 inches of gravel. This depth ensures proper drainage around the liner perimeter.
Step 3: Levelling with Gravel
Place the pit liner in the hole, then fill around it with coarse gravel (⅜ to ½ in. diameter). Add enough gravel so its surface is about 1 inch below the slab top (for a 4‑in. slab, add three in. below). Level the gravel using a float so the top sits just one inch beneath your floor finish.
Step 4: Preparing the Concrete Bed
Mix concrete at about one part cement, two parts sand, and three parts gravel. If using one bag, you’ll need roughly 5½ gallons of water. Screed and float the fresh concrete so it’s packed tightly against the existing slab edges. Finish with a trowel and let it cure for one or two days before proceeding.
Step 5: Installing the Pump
Choose a quality submersible pump, even if it costs $75 to $125 or more, and don’t skimp on the motor. Begin by threading a 1½‑in. PVC male adapter into the pump’s discharge port and tighten it snugly. Then, apply PVC cement to glue a short schedule‑40 riser into the adapter; the riser should extend a bit above the liner. Bind the pump’s power cords using tape or zip ties to the riser.
Grip the support ring and carefully lower the pump and riser into the liner. Settle the pump on the base and position the float to move freely away from the liner sides. Install the liner lid slot style or drill it to accommodate the riser.
Then add a 1½‑in. Check valve above the riser. Make sure the arrow points upward. Secure with rubber couplings and hose clamps tightly. Without a check valve, water drains back into the pit and may trigger repeated cycling that can damage the pump.
Finally, attach a second riser section above the valve toward the basement ceiling, initially cutting oversized. Tighten above the check valve coupling with a hose clamp.
Step 6: Moving Outside
To discharge outside, drill through the rim joist and exterior wall first, pilot with a ¼‑in. hole inside. Then, from outside, use a 2‑in. bit or holesaw guided by that pilot hole. Slide a PVC pipe through, then mark and trim both the vertical riser and horizontal run so they align. Glue a 90° elbow to the outside end.
Ensure the discharge pipe slopes away from the house. If your yard slopes, a splash block may work; otherwise, run the pipe underground or at grade so water drains away and doesn’t return to the foundation. Caulk the rim‑joist opening inside and outside with high‑grade silicone caulk that remains flexible during pump vibration.
Step 7: Final Connections and Testing
Plug the pump into a GFCI-protected outlet. Pour about 5 gallons of water into the sump pit and observe the operation. The pump should start, discharge water efficiently, and shut off cleanly. Suppose it doesn’t. Check float position, plumbing, and power. Let the concrete settle and cure before heavy use.
Additional Tips from the Pros
- Avoid compressing the liner; keep the float movement free.
- Install a union above the pit so the pump can be removed later without replacing the entire piping.
- Plan discharge piping with as few turns as possible to reduce friction losses.
- Test the pump seasonally, especially before heavy rains.
- Keep the basin clean and check the check valve regularly to avoid failure.
Sump Pump installation is one of the most innovative ways to protect your basement from flooding, mould growth, and long-term water damage. Whether you’re tackling it yourself or want the peace of mind from a professional install, getting it done right matters. From preparing the pit to connecting the discharge line, every step counts.
If you’d rather leave the hard work to the experts or want to ensure the job is done flawlessly.
TriState Waterproofing is here to help. Our team provides professional sump pump installation and basement waterproofing services backed by years of experience and proven results. We serve homeowners across Georgia, North Carolina, and South Carolina with reliable waterproofing solutions tailored to your needs.
Don’t wait for the next storm to test your basement.
Contact Tri State Waterproofing today to schedule your basement waterproofing or inspection. Stay dry, stay safe, and let us do the heavy lifting.
